Buyers Guides

Alexander Scott founded Alex Scott in Aberdeen on 6th August 1925. Since then our shop has been proudly sourcing and producing Highland wear and all things Scottish. Proving our commitment to great customer service I’m passing on some of our extensive product knowledge in our new series of guides. Here is the fourth of my Buyer’s Guides:

Scotland Forever

The Scotland Forever tartan began as an idea here at Alex Scott & Co.(www.kiltmakers.co.uk) in 2003. After weeks on the drawing board it was launched to the local population in early 2004. The tartan quickly became one of the most talked about in town and remains one of the most popular tartans for weddings. Its popularity continues to grow from year to year.

Scotland Forever is without doubt the best-known war cry of the traditional Scottish regiments.

It was famously used by the Scots Greys on their timely and victorious charge at Waterloo in 1815. It spread throughout the ranks of the other Scottish regiments including the Cameron Highlanders. It has become very much entwined with Scotland’s glorious military heritage.

Sadly, many of our famous and distinguished regiments are no longer with us. The Scotland Forever tartan will remind us of the eternal war cry recalling our past glories and will doubtless accompany many future triumphs.

As well as having a name entrenched in tradition, the colour scheme can be described as true to an even older aspect of Scotland; the land. The heather that covers many parts of the Highlands and our national flower (the Thistle) has inspired the colour scheme of the tartan. These natural but bright colours are perfect for a traditional kilt in a modern era and can be used to make a variety of other items.

Scotland Forever Tartan is available in an extensive range of merchandise – here are some examples:

Examples of Scotland Forever products

You can view our Scotland Forever products here.

New guides are added regularly. All our buyers guides are available in our Buyer’s Guide section. We strongly encourage your comments and feedback:

Alexander Scott founded Alex Scott in Aberdeen on 6th August 1925. Since then our shop has been proudly sourcing and producing Highland wear and all things Scottish. Proving our commitment to great customer service I’m passing on some of our extensive product knowledge in our new series of guides. Here is the second in a two part discussion of Kilts and Kilt making in my Buyer’s Guides series:

The Structure of the Kilt

Our kilts are made using pure wool cloth woven by some of the best weavers in the world. The kilts are made-to-measure by our own in-house kiltmaker to the highest possible standard.

The kilts are made using eight yards (7.3m) of cloth. However for bigger people, it is sometimes necessary to add an extra yard of cloth so that the kilt will have the correct number of pleats.

The kilts are lined at the waist and have a buckle and strap at each side to give adjustment for comfort. The kilts are usually pleated to the set, which makes the pattern at the back match the front, but we can if requested, pleat the kilt to the stripe. This ishow military kilts are pleated and makes the back of the kilt appear to be one colour.

Typical Timescale

We usually quote 6-8 weeks to make a kilt, however, there are circumstances out with our control that can extend the time taken.

The weavers strive to keep a surplus of tartan in stock, however, their stock does run out occasionally which means we have to wait until they have woven a new batch. The delay is based purely on how far on with the weaving process they are when we express an interest in acquiring cloth for your kilt. If they are near the end of the process, the delay may only be a week or so, however, the delay can be four weeks and more. We will make you aware of any situation regarding delivery before confirmation of the order.

As mentioned in the previous section, your chosen tartan may not be woven as a stock tartan but we can have any registered tartan woven to order to make one kilt. This adds twelve weeks to the delivery time of the kilt and can add to the cost.

Costs

This is part two of our special guide – in part one we looked at Tartan Cloth and Choice of Tartan

New guides are added regularly. All our buyers guides are available in our Buyer’s Guide section. We strongly encourage your comments and feedback:

Alexander Scott founded Alex Scott in Aberdeen on 6th August 1925. Since then our shop has been proudly sourcing and producing Highland wear and all things Scottish. Proving our commitment to great customer service I’m passing on some of our extensive product knowledge in our new series of guides. Here is the first in a two part discussion of Kilts and Kiltmaking in my Buyer’s Guides series:

Tartan Cloth

Tartan cloth is made with bands of pre-dyed wool woven as warp and weft at right angles to each other. The warp is the spun thread held taught from one end of the loom to the other. The weft is the tread that is woven through the warp at right angles. The weft is woven two over – two under and advances one thread on each new row. This produces narrow diagonal lines that form a block pattern made of vertical and horizontal lines that repeat to create the tartan.

Different Weights of Cloth

The weaving principle is simple but todays weavers can produce all kinds of cloth. Kilt fabric is woven with pure wool and is made in different weights, two of which are ideal for making kilts, medium and heavy weight.

• Medium Weight Cloth: Medium weight cloth is woven to 13oz/yard (430g/M), which is an excellent durable weight to make a kilt.
• Heavy Weight Cloth: Heavy weight cloth is woven to 16oz/yard (515g/M), which again makes an excellent kilt.

Medium weight kilts are simply kilts made with medium weight cloth. The medium weight kilt has certain advantages despite the fact it is the lighter of the two kilts. The pleats are usually very sharp and maintain their appearance. It is also a better weight of kilt for small kilts and kilts that will be worn for more vigorous activities such as Highland dancing.

Heavy weight kilts are kilts made with heavy weight cloth. The extra weight of the 16oz cloth makes the heavy weight widely regarded as the superior kilt. The extra weight makes all the difference in the way the kilt hangs and how the pleats swing. The heavy weight cloth is also more resistant to creasing which means as long as the kilt is kept hanging, very little, if any pressing is required.

Choice of tartans

Tartans are woven into different clan tartans, district tartans and more generic tartans such as ‘Scotland Forever.’ In turn, many of these groups are sub-divided into different colour schemes.

Ancient colours are dyed very pale to reproduce an era when no chemical dyes existed and cloth was dyed using natural dyes.

Modern colours produce a kilt with the same tartan but bright strong colours made possible by the invention of chemical dye. For example, where ancient red appears orange, modern red appears scarlet and ancient blue that is sky blue is navy blue in modern colours.

Additional colours available are weathered, where the colours are tinted with brown shades to emulate an old well-worn kilt stained by years of exposure to the harsh Scottish weather on the Highland glens. Muted colours are also designed to emulate an old kilt but they are not as earth-like as the weathered colours.

Although the amount of tartans woven as stock is immense, there are many tartans that are not available in certain colours, if any. These tartans can be specially woven.

Choosing your tartan

If you have a Scottish surname there is a good chance that there is a tartan for your clan and one or more weavers weave it in quantity. If you like the tartan and are happy that you are wearing the family tartan this narrows the search down to different versions of that particular clan tartan. However, despite the large quantity of tartans now available, you may have a Scottish name that does not have a tartan. In this case it may be classed as a ‘sept’ of a clan. A sept of a clan is a family name that is related to a bigger clan for various reasons. The main reason was marriage. Female offspring of chiefs would lose the clan name in marriage but would still wish to retain her clan connection. Other clan names were simply small clans that sought the protection of a bigger clan. So, the sept clans then and now have the right to wear the badges, crests and tartans of another, bigger clan.

If your surname does not link to any tartan, the next step is to look back at each maiden name on the maternal side beginning with your mother. This can often throw up new possibilities for family tartans.

If you have by this stage found no related tartan to your name or have a dislike to your family tartan, then you can choose any tartan! There are many generic tartans such as ‘Scotland Forever‘ that are designed to be a tartan for all, although in truth anyone can wear a clan tartan that they like the look of.

The Tartan Authority is the official body that all tartans must be registered with. You can learn more about clans, tartan and view for yourself hundreds of tartans on the Tartan Authority website.

Special Weave Cloth

Another scenario may be that the Clan tartan exists but is not commercially woven. If this is the case, it may be available in our ‘Old and Rare’ collection. This range covers more unusual tartans but there is a surcharge. We can also have the cloth specially woven.

In part two of this special guide we’ll look at The Structure of the Kilt, Costs and Typical Timescales

New guides are added regularly. All our buyers guides are available in our Buyer’s Guide section. We strongly encourage your comments and feedback:

Alexander Scott founded Alex Scott in Aberdeen on 6th August 1925. Since then our shop has been proudly sourcing and producing Highland wear and all things Scottish. Proving our commitment to great customer service I’m passing on some of our extensive product knowledge in our new series of guides. Here is the second of my Buyer’s Guides:

The History Of The Sporran

The exact origin of the sporran and its traditional role are unclear. What is most likely is that its ancient uses were mixed. Two thousand years ago, Roman Legionnaires would have looked very similar to the Highland warrior, as their tunics were knee length. They had leather straps reinforced with metal hanging down and a piece in the middle to protect the groin. The Scottish warrior also had a similar piece but theirs doubled as a pouch. Thick leather could take a significant blow meaning there was some protection but the sporran was much more useful for carrying all manner of things. Hip flasks, musket pellets and rations would be kept in this easy access pouch. Other cultures moved away from pouches and belt-pouches as clothing started to be made with pockets. However the kilt has no pockets and so the Scottish sporran survived. Today sporrans carry credit cards and mobile phones, the essential accessories of a modern Scot.

How The Traditional Sporran Was Made

The traditional sporran was made from two pieces of animal skin sewn together with the fir facing inwards which was then turned inside out to make the pouch section. A lace or a metal cantle could then be used to secure the top. Cantles were hinged metal brackets attached to the top of the sporran that had a spring loaded clasp to keep them securely shut but allow easy access when required.

Modern sporrans are slightly more complex but follow the same basic design.

The Dress Sporran

The dress sporran is usually ostentatious in style as it is worn with formal outfits such as the Prince Charlie outfit. They are usually made with animal skin such as seal, fox, raccoon or mink and have a decorative metal cantle in polished chrome or silver. The front is also decorated with tassels in the matching skin.

The Semi Dress Sporran

Semi dress sporrans are much more versatile than the dress sporran. This is because they can be worn to day and evening events, while the dress sporran is restricted to formal evening events.

The semi dress sporran is made with shorthaired skins such as seal but have a leather lid that folds roughly half way down the front of the sporran. The lid is often modestly embossed and sometimes has small metal details. They also have the matching skin tassels as seen on the dress sporran.

This is the correct sporran to wear with the Argyll jacket that can be worn with an evening shirt and neckwear or plain day shirt and tie. The semi dress sporran is even more versatile though as it can be worn with day jackets as an alternative to the day sporran.

The Day Sporran

The day sporrans are the plainest sporran, usually the same style as the semi dress sporran but all leather. Brown and black are the two most common colours and plain leather tassels and modest embossing is all the decoration they have.

These sporrans are worn with tweed day jackets and in the modern era, Scotland rugby and football tops. They are essentially the most dressed down sporran designed for any informal or casual occasion.

Modern Twists To The Traditional Sporran

In the last few years, high fashion and traditional Highland wear have met in the middle with results that have been met with mixed reactions. Many people feel that the traditional Scottish national dress should not be altered with modern designs. However many feel that if the traditional kilt is not replaced, any additions are welcome especially if they get people talking about Highland wear.

Sporrans have been given a makeover by some designers with a ‘no limits’ ethos. This results in dress sporrans in vibrant colours such as the one shown in the Buyer’s Guide page as well as more daring designs. If you are interested in a more unusual sporran, contact us for more information.

New guides are added regularly. All our buyers guides are available in our Buyer’s Guide section. We strongly encourage your comments and feedback:

Alexander Scott founded Alex Scott in Aberdeen on 6th August 1925. Since then our shop has been proudly sourcing and producing Highland wear and all things Scottish. Proving our commitment to great customer service I’m passing on some of our extensive product knowledge in our new series of guides. Here is the first of my Buyer’s Guides:

Buyer’s Guide – Jackets

One aspect of Highland wear that confuses many people is the choice of jackets available. There are many styles of jacket available and no hard and fast rules as to when and where you can wear them. There is however, an etiquette that is generally observed and in this section we will describe social situations and advise you which jacket or jackets are suitable.

General Etiquette

Formal Occasions – Prince Charlie Jacket & Waistcoat

Many people attend functions in the evening where the invitation implies that a certain level of dress is required to attend. These types of functions are more commonly referred to as formal functions or occasions. The correct jacket to wear in this instance is the Prince Charlie jacket and vest. The Prince Charlie jacket is the most formal of all the kilt jackets and is the Highland equivalent of a dinner jacket. It has satin lapels and silver plated buttons, making it a very decorative jacket.

Formal and Semi-formal Occasions – Argyll Jacket

Some functions are less strict on level of dress. For example you may be invited to a work function that is set in the afternoon and into the evening. On this occasion it may be the case that you wish to dress smartly but not as formal as a Prince Charlie outfit. The Argyll jacket is the ideal garment to wear on this type of occasion. It has silver plated buttons like the Prince Charlie jacket but has plain lapels and a plain back with a double vent, much like a blazer. The Argyll jacket is also more versatile than the Prince Charlie as it can be worn as an alternative at formal occasions when worn with a bow tie and formal shirt. It is just as useful as a day jacket when worn with a plain standard collar shirt and tie.

The Argyll jacket can be worn on its own or with a matching five-button waistcoat in place of the belt and buckle.

Informal Day Functions – Tweed jackets

For those who wear the kilt on a daily basis, or those who are attending a very informal day event, the tweed jacket is the best option. These jackets are made in the same style as the Argyll jacket but, are made from tweeds and the buttons are usually imitation stag horn. This style of jacket is available in different tweeds and like the Argyll can be worn with or without a waistcoat.

Highlandwear Jackets in the 21st Century

As kilts and Highland outfits have grown in popularity, traditional etiquette has become blurred and fashion now plays a big part. Kilts and jackets are being worn in new and interesting ways. For example, the tweed jacket made with charcoal grey cloth is very popular for weddings in place of the Argyll. Some people also wear their Prince Charlie jacket to the day service of a wedding so that they do not need to change to an evening jacket for the reception.
When choosing a jacket, the best approach is to think about the kind of functions you go to most often or will be going to in future years. If you are of an age where your children and other family members are married but, you work for a company that has three evening functions a year, you may find the Prince Charlie is the best option. If you can foresee a future peppered with weddings and a variety of other day and evening events, you might be best to buy an Argyll jacket.

There is of course no reason to limit yourself to buying just one jacket.

New guides are added regularly. All our buyers guides are available in our Buyer’s Guide section. We strongly encourage your comments and feedback: